Quartz vs. Mechanical: A Collector’s Guide to Vintage Watch Movements

by Finchley Watches February 12, 2026

For new collectors, the distinction between "quartz" and "mechanical" is often the first technical hurdle. It is a debate that has shaped the history of horology, particularly during the era we cherish most at Finchley Watches: the 1980s and 1990s.

While purists often romanticise mechanical movements, the reality of vintage collecting is more nuanced. Both movements have their own virtues, history, and place in a thoughtful collection. Here is a comprehensive guide to understanding what powers your watch, free from myths and marketing noise.

The Mechanical Movement: Tradition and Engineering

A mechanical watch is, in essence, a tiny engine driven by physics rather than electricity. This technology has existed for centuries and represents the traditional art of watchmaking.

How it works

Inside the watch, a coiled spring (the mainspring) stores energy. As this spring slowly unwinds, it releases energy through a series of gears to the escapement, which regulates the release of power. This controlled release swings a balance wheel back and forth, usually at a rate of 3 to 4 times per second. This oscillation is what produces the signature "ticking" sound.

There are two main types of mechanical movements:

Manual Wind: You must physically turn the crown to tighten the mainspring. It is a daily ritual that connects the wearer to the object.
Automatic (Self-Winding): A weighted rotor moves with the motion of your wrist, winding the mainspring automatically as you wear it.

Why collectors love them

The "Sweep": Because the balance wheel oscillates multiple times per second, the second hand appears to sweep smoothly around the dial, rather than ticking once per second.
Longevity: A well-maintained mechanical watch can theoretically last forever. Worn parts can be fabricated or replaced by a skilled watchmaker.
Craftsmanship: There is a romantic appeal to a device that functions purely on mechanics, without a battery or microchip.

The trade-off

Mechanical watches are less accurate than quartz. A vintage mechanical watch is generally considered "accurate" if it gains or loses between 10 to 30 seconds per day. They also require regular servicing (cleaning and oiling) every 3 to 5 years to maintain performance.

The Quartz Movement: The Revolution of Precision

Often misunderstood as a strictly "modern" or "cheaper" alternative, quartz technology was actually the height of luxury and innovation when it first appeared in the late 1960s. By the 1980s, it had revolutionised the industry, allowing for designs that were previously impossible.

How it works

A quartz movement is powered by a battery that sends electricity through a quartz crystal. The unique property of quartz (piezoelectricity) means that when electricity passes through it, the crystal vibrates at a precise, high frequency—specifically 32,768 times per second.

A microchip counts these vibrations and converts them into one single pulse per second, which drives a stepping motor to move the hands.

Why collectors love them (especially from the 80s & 90s)

Unmatched Accuracy: A standard quartz watch varies by only about 15 seconds per month, making it far more precise than even the most expensive mechanical chronometer.
Design Freedom: Because quartz movements are thinner and more durable, they allowed brands like Cartier, Seiko (Lassale), and Gucci to create the ultra-slim, elegant profiles that defined the 1980s and 1990s aesthetic.
"Grab and Go": A quartz watch keeps running even when not worn. You can leave it in a drawer for a week, pick it up, and it will still be telling the correct time.

The trade-off

The second hand on a quartz watch "ticks" once per second rather than sweeping (though some high-frequency quartz models differ). They require battery replacements every 18 to 36 months. While reliable, if the electronic circuit fails decades down the line, it often requires a movement replacement rather than a repair.

The 1980s Context: When Quartz Was King

During the 1980s, Swiss luxury houses embraced quartz to compete with Japanese innovation. This is why you will find high-end Cartier Tanks, Must de Cartier models, and Omega De Villes from this period housing quartz movements. These were expensive, luxury items designed for a modern client who valued slim elegance and precision over Victorian mechanics.

Dismissing a 1990s quartz watch as "inferior" is to misunderstand the history of that decade.

Summary: Which Should You Choose?

The choice between quartz and mechanical depends on how you plan to wear the watch.

Choose Mechanical if:

You appreciate the engineering and "soul" of a traditional machine.
You enjoy the ritual of winding your watch or setting the time.
You love the visual of a sweeping second hand.

Choose Quartz if:

You value convenience and want a watch that is always ready to wear.
You prefer the ultra-slim, refined aesthetics of 1980s and 1990s design.
Accuracy is your top priority.
You want a lower maintenance cost (batteries are cheaper than full mechanical services).

At Finchley Watches, we curate both. Whether it is the rhythmic heartbeat of a mechanical Seiko or the effortless precision of a quartz Cartier, the best movement is the one that keeps you on time—and in style.